Top East Coast Climbing Destinations

Most people know about the popular West Coast climbing locations: Zion, Red Rock, Yosemite, etc. I’d like to introduce you the lesser known, but equally as fun, East Coast climbing destinations.

Asheville, NC
  Asheville is well-known for its traditional (trad) climbing and bouldering, however there are several spots offering quality sport climbing as well. It’s a great base for climbers because the weather it mild enough you’re able to climb year round, there’s a great variety and the climbing community is really strong.
Some Top Routes:

1. "The Nose" at Looking Glass Rock

   • Type: Traditional climbing

   • Grade: 5.8

   • Description: "The Nose" is one of the most iconic climbs in the Southeast. It offers incredible exposure on clean granite and is about 4 pitches in length.
     
     

     

     Dopey Duck

2. "Dopey Duck" at Rumbling Bald

   • Type: Trad climbing

   • Grade: 5.9

   • Description: "Dopey Duck" is a classic sport route at Rumbling Bald. This climb features slab and crack climbing.
     
     

     

     Invisible Airways

3. "Invisible Airwaves" at Laurel Knob

   • Type: Trad, Aid climbing

   • Grade: 5.10c

   • Description: This climb offers challenging, sustained climbing over its seven pitches. The crux involves technical and powerful moves on overhanging rock.

Rumney, New Hampshire
Rummey has 800+ routes, many of which are short walks from parking lots, making them extremely accessible. The routes range from 5.5 to 5.15 catering to all levels of climbers. The cliffs are composed of schist, which is a coarse layered rock that offers great friction.
 Some Top Routes:

1. "Waimea" at Waimea Wall

   • Type: Sport climbing

   • Grade: 5.10d

   • Description: Climbers are presented with a striking, steep overhang, transitioning into a more technical, slabby finish.

     
     

     

     Flying Hawaiian

2. "Flying Hawaiian" at Meadows Cliff

   • Type: Sport climbing

   • Grade: 5.11b

   • Description: The route challenges climbers with its slightly overhanging face, accompanied with dynamic moves between well-spaced holds.
     
     

     

     Broken Jaws

3. "Jaws II" aka "Broken Jaws" at Waimea Wall

• Type: Sport climbing

• Grade: 5.15a

• Description: As one of the most difficult routes at Rumney, "Jaws II". Originally established by Dave Graham, the route saw a change in its difficulty after a key hold broke, leading to its alternative name, "Broken Jaws."

Fayetteville, WV
Fayetteville, another great base for climbers. It has a fantastic climbing community, some people literally just camp and climb for months at a time. It’s proximity to New River Gorge (NRG) gives climbers access to ton of high quality climbs.

Some Top Routes:

1. "Proper Soul" at Endless Wall

   • Type: Sport climbing

   • Grade: 5.14a

   • Description: "Proper Soul" is an iconic route in the New River Gorge and was one of the earliest 5.14s in the eastern U.S.
     
     
     

     

     Amarillo Sunset

2. "Amarillo Sunset" at Endless Wall

   • Type: Sport climbing

   • Grade: 5.11b

   • Description: "Amarillo Sunset" is perhaps one of the most photographed and climbed routes in the New River Gorge.
     
     
     

     

     Gun Control

3. "Gun Control" at Bubba City

   • Type: Sport climbing

   • Grade: 5.13c

   • Description: According to Mountain Project "Gun Control" only has a handful of ascents. A the beginning of the route you use two bolts that were established in 1989!!! That’s wild! It’s an extremely technical and requires very powerful moves.

🔥🔥🔥 Hot Take 🔥🔥🔥

 Being older is never a disadvantage in climbing.

PS: These are not my personal opinions - this is meant to spark discussion

My Thoughts

So, I’ve only climbed at the New River Gorge when it comes to East Coast Climbs mentioned above and the views / scenery are incredible. I’ve also climbed at Red River Gorge which is also an amazing east coast climbing location, but didn’t make the short list. It was really interesting to read about the history of these climbing meccas but just goes to show how much growth I need to have in my climbing ability to even touch some of these routes! Definitely gives me some goals to work towards and I really wanna make it out to Asheville with my crew sometime in the near future!