How to get in and out of the gym

Climbing can easily turn into a very social evening. I’ve spent over 3 hours at the gym, a countless number of times and leave not really feeling like I got a workout. These are some of the things I do when I’m trying to do an in and out power hour.

1. Up Downs - Great for endurance; either with a friend or solo, hope on a top rope route and climb all the way up then all the way back down.

2. 4×4s - This is a boulder endurance exercise where you climbing 4 boulder problems each 4 times back to back. Between each set you should rest about 5 mins. You want to make sure the problems are hard enough that you’re struggling at the end but not so hard you pump out too early. In order for this workout to be effective it should be repeated regularly.

3. 6 min on 2 min off - You can adjust the time however you’d like but the goal is to say on the wall for as long as possible. You want to utilize active rests and shake out frequently.

4. Lead climbing (quick) - Grab a partner and do as many routes as you can safely complete without resting. Alternating between climbs will serve as your rest. I ALWAYS over grip when I sport climbing so this really get’s me pumped and I only last a short time frame.

Fun Games

Trying to switch up your typical gym session?? Try these fun games with your friends or solo:

• Feet First - With this drill you have to touch the hold first with your foot and then you can grab it with your hand

• Add on - You need a group for this one, but each person adds on a move. If you can’t complete the move your out!

• Lemon / Lime - Make the first move of the problem, then go back to the start without coming off the wall. Then make the first two moves, and reverse back to the start (again, without coming off). Keep climbing in this one step forward, two steps back fashion until you reach the top (the lemon!).

• One leg- This really helps with foot placement. The whole point of the game Is you’ll be doing the route twice - once where you only use your left foot and once where you use your right.

Try Something New

STRETCHING / WARM-UP - I don’t take this seriously enough in my personal climbing life but I really do think EVERYONE should take the time to warm up and stretch before climbing. Dynamic stretching; as opposed to static and ballistic stretching, has been proven to be the best stretching method and reduces injury rate.

Try this 5-10 min wam-up routine

• push-ups (1-2 min) and fit in as many as possible

• high knees (1-2 min)

• write and finger rotation / stretches (1-2 min)

• shoulder rotations (1-2 min)

• climbing on lower grades (1-2 min)

My Experience

I’ve taken 3 clinics and each one has stressed the importance of a warm-up. I always climb easier and work my way up but i normally don’t take the time to rollout my shoulders, wrists and fingers. LOL and I’m trying to work it in …… it just normally dosen’t happen 😅. I try to climb 2-3 times a week, but sometimes I don’t make it at all. To keep things fun my friends and I will bet dinners on someone completing new routes that have been set or finally completing a problem we’ve been working on. It’s a really fun thing to do and keeps you always pushing yourself just a little harder!