Find the Perfect Fit

There’s a common myth that climbing shoes need to hurt in order to fit appropriately. While you want the shoes to be snug, your feet shouldn’t hurt the second you slip them into your shoe. Choosing a climbing shoe can be a daunting task. Considering a new pair can cost $200+, you don’t want to get a pair you don’t like. There are so many different options it can seem overwhelming, but here are a few things to consider when purchasing a shoe.

What type of climbing are you doing? There are neutral, moderate, and aggressive climbing shoes. Neutral shoes have a flatter bottom and offer comfort. They are ideal for beginners and longer climbs, while moderate shoes strike a balance between comfort and performance. Aggressive shoes are more downturned with a pointed toe. This design will really help with overhangs and more technique intensive holds.

How does the shoe feel? The shoe should feel tight but not painful; depending on the material, a shoe will also stretch a little overtime. A loose shoe reduces your ability to “feel” the footholds, so you’re more likely to slip off a hold.

What material is the shoe made of? The rubber used in the shoe will directly affect its ability to grip, smear and its overall durability. The stickiness, stiffness, and thickness are all things to consider when checking out the rubber. The most popular rubber brands are Vibram, Stealth, and Trax. I recommend looking into each one to see what best fits your needs. If you’re interested in a more in depth rubber comparison let me know and i’ll add it in an upcoming article!

Anatomy of a Shoe

Ever wonder what parts of the climbing shoe are called? What parts will stretch? Let’s break it down!

• Heel Rand - The heel rand, commonly referred to as the rand, is the rubber strip that encircles the shoe and covers part of the upper. It adds durability, helps with toe hooking, and contributes to edging performance.

• Closure System - The closure system secures the shoe on your foot. It can be laces, Velcro straps, or slip-on, each influencing fit and adjustability.

• Toe Box -The toe box is the front section of the shoe that covers your toes. It can be designed differently based on the shoe's intended use—wider for comfort or narrower for precision.

• Heel Cup - The heel cup is the back portion of the shoe that holds your heel securely. It's crucial for stability during heel hooks and other heel-related techniques.

• Arch - The arch in a climbing shoe refers to the part of the shoe's midsole that is positioned under the arch of the foot. The stronger the arch the more “aggressive” and technical the shoe

• Outsole - The outsole is the rubber layer on the bottom of the shoe that comes in direct contact with the climbing surface. It determines the shoe's grip and friction.

• Midsole - The midsole is the layer between the outsole and the upper. It provides support and stiffness, impacting the shoe's performance and comfort

Try Something New

Do you have a problem with foot stink?!? ….. Because I really do😅. I’ve tried everything ranging from soaking my feet in vinegar for a MONTH to using a charcoal banana bag, but nothing really seemed to work.
The only thing that worked for about a month is ……buying new shoes. No, but really I think if you start with a new pair of shoes and use a foot deodorant and baby powder that should do the trick. If you have any other suggestions please let me know.

My Experience

I’ve been told numerous times that climbing shoes are just uncomfortable. I’m not sure if I just got used to it or if I lucked out and chose the right fit, but I wear a women’s 11 which translates to a 42.5cm for my climbing shoe. I started with a neutral fit and it honestly felt similar to a tennis shoe. However, it didn’t provide much support when climbing. I pretty quickly upgraded a more aggressive shoe and bought the Men’s La Sportiva Solutions for my past 3 pairs. I tend to drag my feet a lot so I do wear through the toe rather quickly. I replace these shoes semi-regularly, but I’m hoping as my technique improves the shoes will last longer.

I tried to get my shoes resoled once but found the wait time to be quite long. When I finally got my shoes back, they only lasted a few more months. Ultimately, I didn’t find the cost of resoling worth it, but you might give it a go and see if your shoe repair shop does a better job.

I really don’t think you can go wrong with your first pair of climbing shoes because it will be all you know. I recommend a less aggressive shoe to start and work your way up to a more aggressive shoe; so you don’t kill your feet, but if you wanna send it I also think you’ll be okay.