What’s the Best Rock?

Have you ever wondered if the type of rock affects your climbing ability? Well hopefully this weeks article can answer this question. There are only 3 types of rocks: Igneous, Sedimentary and Metamorphic, they are classified by their origin and formation process. We’ll be diving a little deeper into Igneous and Sedimentary rocks because within these classifications, we find rock types like granite, limestone, and sandstone, which happen to be quite popular among rock climbers for their excellent properties.

Granite is an igneous rock that primarily originates from lava and magnum. This is the rock type that makes up the popular climb El Capitan in Yosemite. Granite typically erodes vertically creating cracks, making it ideal for trad climbing or crack climbers.

Limestone, a sedimentary rock, is primarily made of calcium carbonate that is predominantly formed on the seafloor. Unweathered, this rock is extremely strong and can contain a lot marine fossils creating great gripping textures, however limestone with no fossils can be slick. The downside with this rock is due to its chemical makeup it slowly erodes in in acid. Rain is naturally acidic so slowly the routes and features will change.

Sandstone, anther sedimentary rock, is formed by deposits of layered sediments compressed and hardened over time. The rock however is soft and easily erodes. Still this rock has great friction, cracks, and other interesting features that makes it great for climbing. Sandstone is the most common rock at The New River Gorge (my favorite climbing location).

🔥🔥🔥🔥 Hot Take 🔥🔥🔥🔥

Core exercise that takes longer than 30 seconds per set are overrated. Planking for 3 minutes won't give you the strength needed to hold tension on max effort moves.

PS: These are not my personal opinions - this is meant to spark discussion

My Thoughts

I’ve really only ever climbed on sandstone at The New River Gorge and I’ve loved it. While researching for this article I found it interesting that it’s considered “soft”. I’ve never thought that, but I have used all the cracks and crevasse while climbing and greatly appreciated them. My group even came across a bat

Devils Tower, located in Wyoming, is on my list of places to go climb. It’s an iconic location and is known for crack climbing. One of the things preventing me from booking a trip right now is crack climbing is definitely not a strength. I’d actually say it’s probably a weakness. Through my research it’s interesting to learn that igneous rock is known for creating great crack. Specifically the rock located at Devils Tower is a rare form of igneous rock, phonolite porphyry. Phonolite porphyry is rare because it's made of unusual minerals, formed in specific geological conditions, and isn't found in many places, making it a unique rock to climb.

All and all, it’s pretty obvious, each rock type lends itself to a different style of climbing. I think in order to grow you should constantly be challenging yourself. So, I recommend testing out each type when you get the chance. That being said I will not be starting my crack climbing journey anytime soon.