Rock Climbing Terminology

When you step into the rock climbing community, you’ll start hearing terms like on-sight, crimp, choss, etc.. Even I still hear new terms, and I’ve been climbing for almost 3 years! A quick google search can solve this knowledge gap but I’ll try and provide a few essentials to get you started.

Belay

Belaying is an essential part of rope climbing . The belayer is the one responsible for catching the climber if they fall. They do this by running the rope through a belay device which is connected to their harness by a locking carabiner. When the rope is locked into a climber’s belay device, they are “on belay.” The climber is then as safe as they can be and free to get moving.

Beta

Beta is any help or advice from another climber in regards to a climb. When your projecting a route it’s common to discuss other climbers “beta”.

Crux

“The crux” refers to the most difficult move or series of moves on a climb. A fun fact is — climbs are rated based on the crux, not their average difficulty.

Smear

When there’s a lack of footholds, you’ll hear people suggest smearing. This uses friction and the shoe rubber to grip. A tip on smearing - The more pressure you put on your smearing foot, the friction there is to help it stick.

Flag

Flagging is a body position essential. You use your free-hanging foot as a counterbalance to statically make the next move. By extending your foot out to one side of your body it acts like a tail (think of a mountain lion), keeping your balance and helping you use less energy on the wall.

Toe Hook

Using the friction of shoe-rubber on the top of your toes and flexing your foot up, against the hold/rock. This is a great technique to learn and helps keep your body close to the wall.

Heel Hook

Similar to the tow hook you put your heel around a hold and use the heel rubber to pull you closer to the wall. These are most commonly used when climbing a roof or arete

Dyno

A dynamic climbing movement that requires an you to push off the wall and has your hands and feet leave before reaching the next hold. The use of momentum is crucial for this movement.

Barn Door

To swing sideways out from the wall due to being off balance—the movement often occurs when your right foot and right hand (or vice versa) are your only points of contact, thus causing your weight to swing you backwards in a layback sort of position away from the wall, like a barn door opening.

🔥🔥🔥 Hot Take 🔥🔥🔥

 Being strong is never a disadvantage in climbing.

PS: These are not my personal opinions - this is meant to spark discussion